Any lens experts out there?

[surfergirl]

Hey everyone!

I need some help. I have been thinking about upgrading to the Nikon d50 from my little slow point and shoot. I have been researching like mad and I am confused! :confused: There are so many lens choices. What is the best lens for portraits and close up shots of flowers etc? I have found the d50 that comes with the following lenses:

Package 1 comes with: Lens 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 and 70-300 f/4-5.6

Package 2 comes with the 18/55mm lens.


Can anyone pull me out of the state of confusion? Thanks so much! :)

[Jennifer]

I usually suggest that unless funds are tight to not get any lens package. Buy the body only and buy a lens of your choice as the ones in packages are usually not that great. Did you want any kind of zoom or do you just want a prime fixed lens that's really sharp and great for low light? What's your budget? The package #1 will give you a lot wider range to shoot both indoors and out but won't be too great in low light as it only goes down to 3.5 at the wide angle end which is difficult to do indoor natural light photos and most likely would need a flash indoors most of the time unless the room is quite bright or your subject is close to the window. Do you understand what the lens numbers mean or did you want a definition so you can sort those out? We're here to help so keep asking questions and we'll drill down deeper until you're out of your current state! LOL ;)

[surfergirl]

My main goal for a lens is low light, close ups... things like that. I primarily take photos of people- my kids and family but I like to take landscape photos too. Is there an 'all round good starter lens'? I think my main problem is that I dont understand what the lens numbers mean or what the definitions of them are! Thanks so much for the help. You guys are great! :)

[Jennifer]

Ok, here's an explanation of the lens numbers :) Starting here might help you search according to your personal needs.

Let's take the first lens you mention and break it down. 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 The first numbers (28-80mm)is the focal lengths available FROM a wide angle of 28mm THROUGH the zoom end of 80mm. Neither of these are true wide angle or zoom but for sake of argument, we'll call the two ends "wide and zoom." You can use any length in between those two numbers.... meaning you have a 50mm, 35mm, 75mm etc.... any numbers that fall between 28-and 80 (some people assume those are the ONLY two available so that's for clarification)

Next is the f/3.5-5.6. Those are the MAXIMUM AVAILABLE F/STOPS (or how large the opening will go) at the wide and tele ends of the lens. (Again, you can use any number smaller than those, not limited to JUST those.... you can use f/8, f/11, f/16 etc....) but the largest f/stop when you are all the way at the wide (28mm) end is f/3.5. AS YOU ZOOM, the largest available aperture will decrease and when you are zoomed all the way out to 80, the largest available aperture will be starting at f/5.6. This is called a variable aperture zoom lens. For more money (of course! ;) ) you can buy a fixed aperture lens that has maybe the f/3.5 (more often an f/2.8) available at ALL FOCAL LENGTHS FROM THE 28MM THROUGH THE 80MM. These are called "fast" lenses as they allow you to use a higher shutter speed because you can open up the lens thereby letting in more light.

So, to take indoor, low light shots, you'll need the fastest lens you can get (look for f stops in the f/1.4-2.8 range... spendy but that's why) This will also give you a very shallow depth of field where say only an inch to several inches only will be in focus (Shallow DOF, and desireable in portraits where the subject is in sharp focus and the background is blurred) AS you decrease the aperture (from f/3.5 to f/11 for instance) , you'll get more and more in focus but you'll need slower and slower shutter speeds to keep the amount of light hitting the sensor consistant for correct exposure and that can lead to camera shake and blurry images if it goes too low.

For landscapes, you need the widest lens you can get, you'll be using a very tiny f/stop to get everything from near to far in focus (depth of field) so you'll be looking more at the mm instead of the f/stop. A nice lens for landscapes is in the 12 (which nobody can afford! LOL) through about 18mm. A moderate wide angle would be about a 24mm. You wouldn't use these wide ends for people shots though because they cause distortion.

A nice portrait focal lenth is between 85mm and 125mm (read further to find out how this has changed for digital!)

One last thing :) In 35mm film photography the 50mm lens is considered "normal" in that that's what our eyes percieve the world. So anything longer is telephoto and anything wider is wide angle. In digital however, there is a 1.6x crop factor. Meaning, that the 50mm lens is now aprox. a 75mm lens (therefore GAINING on the telephoto end) and a wide angle 18mm lens is now about a 28mm which is barely considered a true wide angle (therefore LOSING on the wide end) So to look at this lens on a digital camera, it's more accurate to call it a 44-128mm/f3.5-5.6 lens. How 'bout them apples!

[Wuzzygirl]

Jennifer
I LOVE YOU *grins*......i've been sitting here most of the day looking for explanations about focal lengths and finding little i can understand. then i just "happened" to see that you posted here and voila.........you explained it in a way that I can understand! thank you thank you thank you. I'm saving for the 18-200mm VR and nothing else i look at seems to catch my attention LOL. Of course i DID see that Nikkor 200mm VR but i think it's just a couple bucks outta my price range *grins*

Do you have an opinion on the 18-135mm Nikkor lens?

Pam

[Jennifer]

Jennifer
Do you have an opinion on the 18-135mm Nikkor lens?

For a general, all around, keep on the camera, it's AWESOME and the VR make a HUGE difference. Beware though, I was on a waiting list for MONTHS to get it. Finally got one in Singapore and when my waiting list lens came, i just ebay-ed it. It's so much tinier than I thought it would be and not at all heavy or unmanageabe. The one you mention is a BEAST of a lens! LOL It's not my sharpest or fastest lens but it is definitely a great walk around everyday lens.

EDIT: WHOOPSIE! I thought you were talking about the 18-200VR I have! Sorry :)

[Wuzzygirl]

well i WANT the 18-200VR and i think that's the one i'm gonna wait for. i just wondered if you were familiar with or had an opinion on the 18-135

[surfergirl]

Jennifer- you are the best!! That gives me so much more to go on. THank you so much!!!!!! :)

[Karen]

In digital however, there is a 1.6x crop factor. Meaning, that the 50mm lens is now aprox. a 75mm lens (therefore GAINING on the telephoto end) and a wide angle 18mm lens is now about a 28mm which is barely considered a true wide angle (therefore LOSING on the wide end) So to look at this lens on a digital camera, it's more accurate to call it a 44-128mm/f3.5-5.6 lens. How 'bout them apples!

Jen has explained this really well, hope it helps you in deciding what lens you need, to get the results you are after........also remember that the better the glass the better the image, if you can afford IS lenses then go for it, they are excellent and I know in my case they have made a difference in how I shoot.
Also just have to metion that not all digital cameras have the 1.6 crop factor, just most.....mine doesn't, what you see is what you get :)

[Jennifer]

Also just have to metion that not all digital cameras have the 1.6 crop factor, just most.....mine doesn't, what you see is what you get :)
Correct, if your camera is full frame it's not 1.6x but the Nikon you have is :)

[Audrey]

Jennifer, thank you so much for explaining this since I'm learning which lens is best for what situation. I have the lower priced lenses and they're fine for now, but I have already noticed their limits. Since money is tight, for now I do my best with what I have. :)

[kat_75]

I thought I would add my questions to the existing Lenses thread.

So I've actually been trying to learn everything I can about the D50 before I buy it (already decided on this one and want to be sure I get the right accessories.)
Jennifer recommended getting the body first and the lens I need, which sounds like a much better idea, since the lens that comes with the D50 package just doesnt seem to be that great. (Yeah, coming from someone who know VERY little about lenses. :p )

So, on to the questions:


The lenses I've been able to find in my price range only go from around f/3.5 to f/5.6. ARE there any that at least go down to f/2 that I can get for less than $200? What's the mm on a lens that takes f/2 pics?

Also, I've seen several brands that are not Nikkor but fit the D50, like Sigma and Tamron. Are these reliable brands? Obviously if it's a matter of $20 difference or so, I'd prefer to stay with Nikon products.


I'm trying to find one (for now...budget constraints) nice all-round lens that I can take closeups with but still be able to get a halfway decent faraway landscape pic. I mostly seem to take pictures of people indoors, closeups of flowers, and scenery. Maybe in a few more months I can add a longer-range lens to the list...I like to take pics at sporting events as well, and the players on the field are usually far away.

Oh, another question...I still have to buy a hotshoe flash as well, which also are not cheap. I hate the awful effect the onboard flash causes (and if I turn it off, the pic is way too dark.) I want to be able to bounce the flash and keep the direct light away from the subject so I can still get a decent picture. What I wondered is, how universal are these flashes? I have a friend that has one I might be able to buy off him. His camera is an Olympus, however.

Thanks for sticking with me thru this long post. :o Thanks in advance for everyone's help!

[Jennifer]

Sigma, Tamron, and Tokina do have less expensive lenses than the Nikkor.... sometimes the quality is crap, sometimes it's nearly equal to (which would usually be a HUGE savings in cash) and rarely, better than Nikkor. I assume you are looking for a zoom and that's a tough call for $200 for an f/2. The 50mm f/1.8 is about $99 and probably the least expensive f/2 you'll find. I'd suggest you check out some of the third party lenses at dpreview.com in the nikon lens forum. My Nikon lens catalog is nearly two years old so I'm sure it's missing some of the brand new lenses but I don't see anything in your price range at that fstop that you want. Looks like you need a trip to the camera store, see what's available for your particular needs. :o sorry, i'm not being much help here!:confused: :)

As far as flashes go, the only two Nikon flashes that are compatible are the SB600 and SB800. You can get third party flashes that can be compatible but usually don't have ALL the flash options available. They are NOT universal between brands, you MUST get a Nikon compatible flash.... such as sunpak, quantaray, etc.... The SB600 is all the flash you would need, the SB800 just has some bells and whistles that you would probably never use or miss. Your local camera store should be able to help you find out which off brands will work with the D50 :)

[kat_75]

No, you're being a BIG help! I'll have to check dpreview. I came here first because sometimes they talk over my heads. :D

I figured if I skimped on anything it definitely wouldnt be the lens, so that leaves the flash, lol! Thanks for the reminder on those brand names (sunpak and quantaray)...I've seen them before but did not know they were Nikon compatible.

*building a Christmas list...* teehee!

ETA:I assume you are looking for a zoom and that's a tough call for $200 for an f/2. The 50mm f/1.8 is about $99 and probably the least expensive f/2 you'll find.
I'm still trying to understand lenses... :o
So 50mm is supposed to be something close to what we actually see, is that right?
Would this 50mm f/1.8 take good flower closeups? Not like, super-super macro, or anything.
Is that the only range this has is 50mm and f/1.8? :confused:

[Jennifer]

ETA:
I'm still trying to understand lenses... :o
So 50mm is supposed to be something close to what we actually see, is that right?
Would this 50mm f/1.8 take good flower closeups? Not like, super-super macro, or anything.
Is that the only range this has is 50mm and f/1.8? :confused:
Yes, what the human eye sees, but with the digital crop factor, 50mm is closer to a 75mm. 50mm is the only LENGTH it has but it ranges in f-stops from the largest of 1.8 all the way to f/22 I believe. You can use any f-stop in the range from wide open f/1.8 all the way stopped down to a tiny f/22.... Such as f/1.8, 2, 4, 5.6, 8, 11,16,22

I honestly never shoot macro, flowers... bugs... etc so I can't comment on that. There are several ladies here that do do macro and may chime in later :)

[kat_75]

OHHHH...Does that mean that it's not a zoom, then? And the ones that say, like, "55-200mm", that means it's a zoom? (I've been browsing B&H and been trying to figure this out. :o)

[Jennifer]

OHHHH...Does that mean that it's not a zoom, then? And the ones that say, like, "55-200mm", that means it's a zoom? (I've been browsing B&H and been trying to figure this out. :o)
YES! :D

[kat_75]

Whew! :)

[kat_75]

Okay, I have another question. I am confused about what constitutes a "fast" lens.

I just got my regular newsletter from a photography site, which includes Q&A from some members. One member asked about some low-light conditions and how to get rid of that motion blur/ghosting. The pro/expert answered with, basically, get a faster lens. The photographer was using a Canon with "quick 70mm-200mm f2.8", and the pro/expert recommended a "faster lens, such as EF 100 f/2 USM or EF 135 f/2L USM".

What the heck does all this mean?? I know f/2 will help let in more light, helping with the motion blur...

Are EF and USM lens designations for Canon cameras?
What are the 100 and 135 numbers--mm?
How can I tell what speed a lens is by looking at the description? (I'm looking at Nikon lenses.)
What's f/2 vs. f/2L?

Is that enough questions yet? :p

[Jennifer]

Okay, I have another question. I am confused about what constitutes a "fast" lens. It's called 'fast' because you can have a wider aperture which in turn enables you to use a FASTER or HIGHER shutterspeed. So a fast lens is f/1.4 and a slow lens is f/5.6. Faster lenses cost a lot more :)



#1 Are EF and USM lens designations for Canon cameras?
#2 What are the 100 and 135 numbers--mm?
#3 How can I tell what speed a lens is by looking at the description? (I'm looking at Nikon lenses.)
#4 What's f/2 vs. f/2L?

Is that enough questions yet? :p
#1 Yes (USM Ultra Sonic Motor) (EF electrofocus)

#2 the 100 and 135 are mm... one lens is a 100mm telephoto, the other is a135mm telephoto (remembering that 50mm is 'standard human eye')

#3 by what comes after the mm such as a 50/1.4 lens is read as a "fifty millimeter lens with an f stop of 1.4" a 24-70/2.8 is read "twenty four to seventy millimeter with an f stop of 2.8" and so on

#4 I am nikon, not really sure what the "L" is but I THINK it denotes the professional lens??? Karen???

Hope that helps some :)

[Karen]

Okay, I have another question. I am confused about what constitutes a "fast" lens.

I just got my regular newsletter from a photography site, which includes Q&A from some members. One member asked about some low-light conditions and how to get rid of that motion blur/ghosting. The pro/expert answered with, basically, get a faster lens. The photographer was using a Canon with "quick 70mm-200mm f2.8", and the pro/expert recommended a "faster lens, such as EF 100 f/2 USM or EF 135 f/2L USM".

What the heck does all this mean?? I know f/2 will help let in more light, helping with the motion blur...

Are EF and USM lens designations for Canon cameras?
What are the 100 and 135 numbers--mm?
How can I tell what speed a lens is by looking at the description? (I'm looking at Nikon lenses.)
What's f/2 vs. f/2L?

Is that enough questions yet? :p


Yes Kat EF is a Canon thing and means 'electrofocus', USM mean Ultrasonic Motor it meands basically that they have a little motor in the lens that lets them focus extra fast.

You are right about the numbers, the 100 and 135 are both mm.

Speed is usually designated by the f-stop so a fast lens will be f1.4, f1.8, f2.8

f2 vs f2L, the L means the lens is a 'pro' lens

Oh the lenses the pro recommended are prime lenses.....meaning they are just the one focal length, no zooming.......lol you do that with your feet!! :)

[Karen]

Opps looks like we were posting at the same time, I had to take a phone call lol
glad to see we had the same answers lol :)

[Jennifer]

Opps looks like we were posting at the same time, I had to take a phone call lol
glad to see we had the same answers lol :)
Me too! LOL, I'm not up on Canon, thanks!

[kat_75]

I knew I could count on you girls. :D

You know, that wasnt nearly as confusing as I thought it would be. :p I thought it was some extra "thing" like a motor or something in there that made it take pictures faster. :confused: :D

Thanks again girls!

[kat_75]

Okay, another lens question. ;)
I think I'm going to just bite the bullet and get two lenses. These are the two I'm looking at. I do mostly flower closeups, weddings/parties, and landscape photography. Will these work? :confused:

Nikkor 70 mm - 300 mm f/4.0-5.6 $130
Nikon 50 mm f/1.8D $120

[Karen]

In my opinion you will need a wider lens for weddings and landscapes, I use a 24-70mm for that type of shot :)

[kat_75]

Wow!!! $350... I think that's out of my budget. ;)

Hm...I see a 24-70 f/2.8 (the expensive one) and a 24-70 f/3.5-5.6 (about half as much). I assume the f/2.8's are more expensive because they're faster? Is that right?

The 3.5-5.6s are priced around $100-$150. What sort of limitations would I have with this lens over the 2.8? *sigh* I'd really love to have one with the larger aperture.

Am I just crazy, or would that same landscape lens work well for indoor portraits? I would really rather have a good portrait lens and a mediocre landscape lens than the other way around. Heck, I can get pretty darned good landscape shots with my P&S. But indoors shots suck because of the crappy onboard flash.
I'm sure I'm talking out of my head. :p

[lvich]

I would favor Package 1 because it gives you a lot of choices. The 70 - 300 will not only do closeups (not exactly macro closeups but good stuff) and has an excellent range for other far away subjects. The 28 - 80 lens will be very close to a standard lens so would also work for your portraits. If the 70 - 300 is a stabilized lens, all the better!

[Karen]

Wow!!! $350... I think that's out of my budget. ;)

Hm...I see a 24-70 f/2.8 (the expensive one) and a 24-70 f/3.5-5.6 (about half as much). I assume the f/2.8's are more expensive because they're faster? Is that right?

The 3.5-5.6s are priced around $100-$150. What sort of limitations would I have with this lens over the 2.8? *sigh* I'd really love to have one with the larger aperture.

Am I just crazy, or would that same landscape lens work well for indoor portraits? I would really rather have a good portrait lens and a mediocre landscape lens than the other way around. Heck, I can get pretty darned good landscape shots with my P&S. But indoors shots suck because of the crappy onboard flash.
I'm sure I'm talking out of my head. :p

Yes the f2.8 lens is faster and so more expensive :)
The limitations would be of course speed.......shooting hand held and in lower light and the lovely shallow dof you get with the 2.8 aperture:)
I use this lens for both but especially portrait and groups, it is my walk around lens :)

[kat_75]

In my opinion you will need a wider lens for weddings and landscapes, I use a 24-70mm for that type of shot :)

Thanks for the help, Karen!
Okay, another question. I see an "18-50mm f/3.5-5.6 DC G" lens ($109). I realize the 3.5 isnt nearly as nice for DOF blur as the 2.8, but it IS a zoom, and it's wider-angle, whereas the 50mm 1.8 I was looking at (which I may still get later on in the future) isnt a zoom and isnt as wide. Would having the zoom and the wider angle be better than having the 50mm 1.8 with no zoom (even though it's a 1.8)?

Also, this may be a question better suited for Nikon Girl Jennifer :) but what's the DC and G at the end of the lens designation? :confused:
Oh, here's the link (http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=335744&is=REG&addedTroughType=categoryNavigation)to the lens I'm looking at. Jennifer, can you tell if this lens will fit a D50? I cant really tell. :( Unfortunately it's out of stock right now. :-/


Hm. There's a similar one for sale that's a lot more but they have a used one for $209.
Zoom Super Wide Angle AF 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G ED-IF AF-S DX Zoom-Nikkor Autofocus
What's so great about this one that makes it cost so much more than the 18-55 f/3.5-5.6? :confused:

Thanks for all your help, girls. I know a lot more about lenses than I used to but I sure do still have a LOT to learn. :o

[kompressor]

Hey everyone!

I need some help. I have been thinking about upgrading to the Nikon d50 from my little slow point and shoot. I have been researching like mad and I am confused! :confused: There are so many lens choices. What is the best lens for portraits and close up shots of flowers etc? I have found the d50 that comes with the following lenses:

Package 1 comes with: Lens 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 and 70-300 f/4-5.6

Package 2 comes with the 18/55mm lens.


Can anyone pull me out of the state of confusion? Thanks so much! :)

I am going to buy the Sigma 17-70mm macro lens if I get an DSLR.
the camera I am looking to buy is a pentax k100 or k10, both have image stablization built in the camera instead of the lens.

17-70 will: the image factor is 1.5 on the pentax (1.6 the one you are looking at) so the 17mm will be like a 28mm in 35mm terms. great for landscapes.
the other end, 70, which is 105mm in 35mm terms is about right for portriats, as anything between 80-135 does not distort the face or body of the person (less then around 70mm faces will appear wider, anything above 140mm, it "flattens" perspective)

here is an example of a shot taken without stablization (left) and with (right)
http://www.digitalcamerainfo.com/images/upload/Image/Stabilization%20article/stills/pentax_dollar.jpg
you be the judge is it helps

good luck with your purchase

randy

[Hattitudes]

Hey everyone!

I need some help. I have been thinking about upgrading to the Nikon d50 from my little slow point and shoot. I have been researching like mad and I am confused! :confused: There are so many lens choices. What is the best lens for portraits and close up shots of flowers etc? I have found the d50 that comes with the following lenses:

Package 1 comes with: Lens 28-80mm f/3.5-5.6 and 70-300 f/4-5.6

Package 2 comes with the 18/55mm lens.


Can anyone pull me out of the state of confusion? Thanks so much! :)

kompressor here again :)

after reading some reviews, if you want one of the best close up lens (macro) then go with this: Tamron 90mm macro
http://www.tamron.com/lenses/prod/90mm.asp
it is as sharp as any lens you can find. 90mm=144mm converting to 35mm terms.
here is a short review of it: http://www.outdoorphotographer.com/content/2005/july/sr_tamron.shtml
it is on the expensive side, though